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- Did you ever need to
test your power supply?

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The best way to do it

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is to use a power supply
unit tester, or PSU tester.

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And these are those 24-pin connectors

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that'll connect right to the main power.

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We're gonna show exactly how to use this,

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and how to read the
results from that tool.

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Let's get started with that now.

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Here are some power supply testers,

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and they go from oldest to newest.

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And I also have a USB power tester,

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and we'll show each of these.

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Let's describe each one real quick.

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First, we have this old one here,

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which is an AT 20-pin power supply tester,

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which you can also use
for the 20-pin connector,

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if it's separate from
your 24-pin connector,

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if the 4-pin is separated from it.

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And you'll see here that
we have the +12 volt,

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the -12, the -5 to +5, +3.3.

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The main voltages you wanna check.

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So this is an old school
power supply tester.

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But if you come across
some older power supplies,

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this is a good guy to use.

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Then we move into the
Thermaltake power supply testers.

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And that's just one manufacturer.

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That's generally who I use.

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And here's one that has
the 24-pin connector.

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So that works with ATX power supplies.

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And then on the other
side, you have Molex,

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and you have a 4-pin for the CPU,

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and also an old school
4-pin mini connector,

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or Berg connector,

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which was used by floppy drives.

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So if you have those
older devices with Molex

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or that type of thing, you
can test it with this guy.

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And these lights light up,

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telling you whether the
voltages are good or not.

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Same type of thing,
+5, -5, +12, -12, +3.3.

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And also, this one has a +5 standby,

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which is what ATX power supplies use.

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If you have the computer plugged
in and the computer is off,

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it's still feeding 5 volts for standby.

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So you can turn the computer
on and it'll activate.

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Or it can be woken up on the
land, or that kind of thing.

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So that's the +5 standby voltage.

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You may or may not see that lit

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on some power supplies, it depends.

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But usually, you will for ATX.

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And then the newest one here.

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This is the Thermaltake Dr. Power II.

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Got your 24-pin connector.

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Works with the latest ATX as
of the recording of this video.

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And then here, we have the
old school 4-pin Molex,

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which you might still have.

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But we also have those 8-pin
power rails that you see

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most commonly now on
today's ATX power supplies.

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And we showed that when we
built the AV Editor computer.

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And you have your red and your black.

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You might be using these for
video and hard drive and so on.

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Now these are passive devices.

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They require no batteries.

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They use the power flowing
through the connection.

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So the computer has to be on
for them to actually work.

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They operate on the
power from the computer

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once you plug it in, which is,

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that's nice to passive,
no batteries required.

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And finally, we have a USB tester.

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And this will test the voltage

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that's coming from your USB port.

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And it'll display how
much, what the voltage is

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so you can make sure that
it's working properly.

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And normally you want it
to be right around 5 volts.

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And then you have outputs here.

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So you can plug in devices

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and see what they are
pulling, as far as amps,

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what their draw is, electricity
wise, from the USB port.

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So we'll show that, too.

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And let's show the, we're
basically gonna focus

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on this guy and this guy,
since they're the latest.

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So let's get into that now.

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Okay, so let's test the power supply.

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And first, we're gonna test

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the main 24-pin connector over here.

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Now, there's a couple warnings and notes

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that we have to talk
about before we begin.

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First, you want to employ
antistatic methods,

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your antistatic strap and mat,

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and connect to any earth bonding point,

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whatever you need to do to ground yourself

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so that we don't damage any
of the equipment in here.

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And try not to touch any of the components

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when you're disconnecting cables.

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That's the best way,
to be honest with you.

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Now, when you're dealing with
power, you have to be careful.

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So first of all, you want
everything disconnected,

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your power connection to the computer,

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make sure the kill switch
is off, if you have one.

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And always read the manual, RTM,

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when it comes to these
power supply testers.

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Because there's a certain procedure,

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there's a certain order or
sequence to these things.

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For example, if we want to test
this main power connection,

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we need to disconnect all
the other power connections

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from the power supply,
except for this main.

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So you gotta do that first.

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So I've disconnected those.

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And that means, optical drives,

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hard drives, the CPU, all
that stuff, the video card,

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all has to be disconnected

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before you use this to test
the main power connection.

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So I've done that.

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I have the computer disconnected
and the kill switch is off,

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and I'm gonna remove the 24-pin-connector,

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and plug that into this
guy, and we'll do the test.

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To remove it, remember there's
a locking tab on the side.

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So you have to press
that in and then pull up.

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Make sure you press that locking tab

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so you don't damage the connector.

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Okay, so I've pulled that out.

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And you can see,

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this connector is what
we were talking about.

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This has that separate 4-pin.

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So you could test the 20-pin
if you wanted to separately.

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But I'm just gonna test all 24 pins.

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So we'll plug that into the connector now.

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Okay, we make sure that
that snaps into place.

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You wanna make sure it's locked

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so that we can start the test.

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So I'm gonna plug in the computer

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and plug it in the back now

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and turn on the kill switch,
which is gonna supply power.

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Now, remember these are passive devices.

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They pull the power from the power supply.

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That's one of the reasons

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you wanna disconnect everything else

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before testing this 24-pin.

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So you get a blue screen

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and then we gonna hit the test button.

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Okay. And we get a another blue screen,

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which is good, unlike Windows.

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And you get your voltages here.

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If you see a red background

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on these types of devices, that's bad.

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A red background accompanied by beeping,

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means that you either
still have things connected

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to the power supply or
something is faulty.

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In this case, everything is good.

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And you can see the voltages here.

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For the 5 volt, it's at 4.9.

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For the 12 volt, it's at 11.9.

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For the 3.3 volt, it's at 3.3.

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And for the others,
it's very close as well.

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Your -12 is at -11.9.

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Your 5 volt standbys at 5 volts.

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So we're in good shape.

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All the voltages are good here.

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And so that's what we want.

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We want that blue screen

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in order to see if the
power supply is okay,

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if that 24-pin is okay.

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Standard deviation, for example,
anything between 4.8 volts

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and 5.1 volts or thereabouts, is good.

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Normally, you'll be a little bit below.

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So 4.9 is fine.

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You know, 3.25 is okay. 11.9 is okay.

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You wanna be very close to that voltage.

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If one is way off, then
you wanna make sure

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the connector is connected properly.

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And beyond that, it could
be that one wire is bad.

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And we can actually test
those wires individually

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with a multi-meter.

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And we'll show how to do
that in a next sub-lesson.

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Now, when you're done with
your test of your 24-pin,

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you wanna make sure you cut the power.

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So I've hit the kill switch,
and disconnect the power cable.

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And you see the power went out,

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and that took about four or five seconds.

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So you gotta wait a little bit.

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Then we can disconnect this guy

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and plug him back into the 24-pin,

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and then power up our computer normally.

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However, I'm gonna move
on to testing other ports.

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We're gonna test the Molex

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and also test the 6-pin connector

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and show how that works on here as well.

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So we need to leave the
24-pin connector in there

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to supply power to the power supply tester

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to test those other cables.

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So at this point, I'm gonna
connect a couple cables.

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I'm gonna connect a 6-pin,

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which will simulate the
video power connection.

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And you can do 8-pin also on this tester.

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And I'm also going to connect
another 6-pin power connector

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to test for Molex.

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Okay, so I've made my first connection,

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and that's the PCI
Express video connection.

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Now, another word of note here,

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when you're dealing with
these testing devices,

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you can only test one
connection at a time,

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and nothing else can be
connected to the power supply.

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The only thing that could be
coming outta the power supply

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is obviously the 24-pin connector

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and the individual connector
that you want to test.

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In addition, when we're testing the video,

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normally that's a red
port on the power supply,

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as we've shown previously.

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And if you have one of these
6-pin or 8-pin connectors,

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you wanna connect the red side

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to that power supply
port, to that red port,

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and connect the black
side here, if it is black.

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So now that we have that done,

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we'll hit the kill
switch and run the test.

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The first test here is
for the power supply

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for the 24-pin connection.

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Press the button again.

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And there's our PCI connection.

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And it shows it right at 12 volts, 11.9.

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And that's what it's supposed to be.

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That's the 12 volt connector for PCI.

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So we're all good with that.

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And I'll kill the power, and
we'll disconnect this guy,

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and we'll connect a Molex to it.

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Okay, so now I've connected
a Molex connector here,

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and the other end is
going to the power supply,

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and that's just connecting to
one of the 6-pin black ports.

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And so we'll do that test now.

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Make sure it's connected securely.

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We'll turn on the kill
switch. Run the test.

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And that's the main power supply.

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Run the test again.

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And there's our Molex connector.

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And you can see here, it says MOX.

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You know which test you're doing.

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PCI means the video.

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MOX is a Molex connector, and so on.

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You can test all these things.

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You have the 5 volt connector at 4.9,

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and the 12 volt wire running at 11.9.

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So we're within tolerance.
Everything is good.

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One thing to make note of with these tests

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is these testers do not do load testing.

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They're just checking the voltage,

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which gives you an indicator

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of whether or not the connection works,

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or if a single wire is
bad, or what have you.

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So they are not load testers, though.

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If you wanna do a load test,

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that's a completely
different thing altogether.

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Generally, you're not
gonna have to do that

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or know that for the A+ exams.

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00:12:13,350 --> 00:12:16,083
So having a power supply
tester like this is okay.

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But keep in mind,

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when you're using any
of these power testers,

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make sure that you're testing
one connection at a time,

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00:12:24,210 --> 00:12:26,700
and make sure you only
have one item connected

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00:12:26,700 --> 00:12:28,230
to the power supply.

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00:12:28,230 --> 00:12:30,960
That single item that you're testing.

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00:12:30,960 --> 00:12:33,330
Whether it's the 24-pin connector,

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00:12:33,330 --> 00:12:36,240
or an individual connector like a PCI,

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00:12:36,240 --> 00:12:41,240
or an SAT connection for
power, or a Molex connector.

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00:12:42,270 --> 00:12:44,820
Make sure that you have
the computer turned off,

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the kill switch engaged
in the off position,

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and have it disconnected as well.

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00:12:51,450 --> 00:12:54,990
And, of course, antistatic
methods, all that stuff.

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Make sure you keep this in mind.

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And probably, most importantly,

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read the manual whenever you're dealing

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with any types of power devices.

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00:13:01,080 --> 00:13:02,850
Very important that you
understand what you're doing

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before you attempt the test.

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00:13:04,650 --> 00:13:05,733
And one last note,

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be careful when you're
dealing with these, guys.

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These corners could be really sharp.

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And I've cut myself on these in the past.

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So you wanna be real
careful with these corners,

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especially on the 24-pin connectors,

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00:13:21,340 --> 00:13:24,120
and also those 6 and 8-pin connectors.

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Especially if they're brand
new, they could be super sharp.

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So be careful with that.

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00:13:29,010 --> 00:13:32,947
And that's about it for the
power supply portion of this.

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00:13:32,947 --> 00:13:36,300
Now, we're gonna get into the USB testing.

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Okay, so here we have a USB tester,

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and I've plugged it into
one of the USB ports here.

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You can test any of
these ports if you want.

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00:13:43,860 --> 00:13:45,150
And so what we're gonna do

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is we're gonna turn on the computer.

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00:13:49,050 --> 00:13:54,050
And when we do so, the
output shows at 4.97, 4.96.

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So it's right around 5 volts.

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And that's what we want.

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Now, if you wanna check any
of these ports, you can.

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But generally, they're all gonna be

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right around 5 volts for most devices.

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00:14:06,660 --> 00:14:08,091
So this is a handy tool to tell you

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00:14:08,091 --> 00:14:10,980
if a USB port has failed or not.

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00:14:10,980 --> 00:14:13,920
Because individual ports can fail.

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00:14:13,920 --> 00:14:15,240
It is possible.

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00:14:15,240 --> 00:14:19,170
You can also check the
amps that are being pulled

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from the outputs from a USB device.

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00:14:22,320 --> 00:14:24,120
And so we'll do that as well.

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00:14:24,120 --> 00:14:25,830
Now, whenever you change any connections,

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turn off the power.

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00:14:30,990 --> 00:14:32,583
So we'll kill that power now.

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00:14:34,200 --> 00:14:36,270
Wait for that to shut off.

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00:14:36,270 --> 00:14:38,820
And first we'll use just a basic mouse,

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00:14:38,820 --> 00:14:43,820
just to show what that'll
pull, and connect that guy now.

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00:14:43,980 --> 00:14:45,543
And we'll hit the power again.

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00:14:53,340 --> 00:14:57,300
And you can see, is that about 5 volts.

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00:14:57,300 --> 00:15:02,300
And you can see the draw from
a USB mouse is basically 0.

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00:15:02,490 --> 00:15:04,740
Now, if we were to do
something that drew more power,

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00:15:04,740 --> 00:15:08,100
you would actually see
something as far as the amps go.

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00:15:08,100 --> 00:15:10,233
So now we'll just connect a smartphone.

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00:15:12,510 --> 00:15:16,803
And plug that smartphone
in with the micro USB.

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00:15:21,900 --> 00:15:26,900
Connect the other end to our
tester and start up the system.

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00:15:31,500 --> 00:15:34,920
And now you can see, again,
we're pushing 5 volts.

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00:15:34,920 --> 00:15:37,560
It's actually a little bit lower now

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00:15:37,560 --> 00:15:39,750
'cause there is a little bit of a draw.

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00:15:39,750 --> 00:15:44,750
And it's about .3, .4
amps from that smartphone.

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00:15:45,060 --> 00:15:47,640
So it can charge the smartphone.

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00:15:47,640 --> 00:15:50,430
And that's really all you're
gonna get from a computer,

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00:15:50,430 --> 00:15:54,420
somewhere in that range, .2, .3, .4 amps.

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00:15:54,420 --> 00:15:58,697
If you wanna charge a phone
faster and get more power,

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00:15:58,697 --> 00:16:02,700
you wanna plug it into the AC charger,

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00:16:02,700 --> 00:16:04,920
especially if you wanna
do your adaptive charging,

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00:16:04,920 --> 00:16:06,990
your fast charging, that kind of thing.

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00:16:06,990 --> 00:16:08,700
That'll increase the amps,

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00:16:08,700 --> 00:16:11,220
and then force the phone to charge faster.

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00:16:11,220 --> 00:16:13,140
As it stands with the USB connection,

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00:16:13,140 --> 00:16:15,210
it'll charge pretty slow.

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00:16:15,210 --> 00:16:17,808
But you could see the
power draw is very low

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00:16:17,808 --> 00:16:21,030
for most devices, but it gets higher,

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00:16:21,030 --> 00:16:25,429
as you use devices that
have, say, moving parts,

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00:16:25,429 --> 00:16:29,430
maybe a webcam, something
that does recording,

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00:16:29,430 --> 00:16:31,080
then your draw gets higher there.

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00:16:32,370 --> 00:16:34,260
So a little USB testing.

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00:16:34,260 --> 00:16:37,170
And again, you can test
devices, see what the draws,

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00:16:37,170 --> 00:16:39,510
and then also test each of your USB ports,

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00:16:39,510 --> 00:16:42,210
just in case you think one is faulty.

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00:16:42,210 --> 00:16:44,310
And so that's about it for the sub-lesson.
