- [Instructor] In this sub lesson
we're going to wire up a patch panel
to an RJ45 jack,
and this patch panel is a type of patch panel
you might see in a server room or a wiring closet
or data center,
and you have your RJ45 connectors,
and on the back, you have all your punch downs
for your individual wires.
And the jack, that's the type of thing
that you'll see at a workstation,
wherever a computer is,
and it might be flush mounted to the wall,
or it might be within a cubicle system or whatever,
but you punch down to these wires here,
and that's what makes the connection between them,
and then a patch cable goes from this to the computer,
and on the other end,
you have lots of patch cables that usually go to switches,
like the Cisco switch that we're using
and in fact, that's what we'll do.
Now, you wanna have some tools handy
to do this connection,
and I call it a long distance connection,
the permanent physical plant,
because these types of connections
are the things that are permanent,
you run the cable, you make the connections,
and you leave them,
and computers can use them every day.
Now of course you'll need some cable,
now I've got Cat6 cable here and everything is Cat6,
we've got the Cat6 patch panel, Cat6 cable,
Cat6 RJ45 jacks,
but then you need some tools,
you should have a good cutter,
to cut the cable,
then you want a wire stripper,
which can take care of stripping the plastic jacket
off of the cable and exposing the wires,
and then you want a punch down tool,
and this is what you use to punch down the individual wires
to all these connections on the jack and on the patch panel,
and these jacks came with a nice little mounting tool,
and so you can place this right in here
and that's what we'll do.
I used to use just a two by four
with some big staples connected,
so I could mount this and keep it secure,
'cause you needs something solid to punch down onto,
'cause it creates a lot of pressure.
So that's a nice item to have if I buy these in bulk,
and you know, if you buy 25 of these or whatever,
you'll get one of these.
And you also need a testing tool to test the connection,
like I said, testings, very important,
and so here I have a basic land tester,
you got the tester itself and then a remote,
and so you'd connect one end to the patch panel
and the other end to the jack once you're done,
and you do that with patch cables,
so we'll show all that.
Okay, so we'll start with the length of cable
and just cut it,
one good cut,
to take that guy off,
and then we'll start working with the individual wires,
we place the cable into our wire stripper,
and I put it in there about an inch, inch and a half or so,
turn it around,
and pull that PVC jacket off,
get rid of the excess,
that exposes the wires,
and you have eight wires,
this is known as UTP, unshielded twisted pair cable,
and it has four pairs,
you've got the blue pair, the orange pair,
the green pair and the brown pair,
collectively known as BOGB.
And these pairs each has a solid color and a white color,
so for example,
we've got the white blue
and then the solid blue,
then we have in here, the white orange, solid orange,
white green, solid green, white brown, solid brown,
and you adjust these in order
and connect them to your patch panel or your jack
according to what standard you're using,
and usually that's gonna be the 568B standard,
which specifies this order,
white orange, orange,
white green, blue,
white blue, green,
and white brown, brown.
And so what we're gonna do,
is we're gonna undo all the wires
so that they're all loose,
and you've got your extra thread,
and so on,
that you can use for cabling purposes
if you're doing long distance runs,
but we're gonna actually just cut these for now
and just show the individual wires connected
to both the patch panel and jack.
So we'll start with the patch panel,
and on the back here, you see numbers in the center,
those are the port numbers that you want to wire up,
so there's a collection of eight punch downs for each port,
and they show the wiring scheme
depending on whether you're using A or B,
again, we're gonna use 568B,
A is the older standard,
though you may see it for a variety of reasons,
so we're gonna use B,
so we need to punch down these guys
according to these colors,
and these guys, according to these colors,
so it's gonna be white orange, orange,
white brown, brown down here,
and up here, white blue, blue,
and white green, green.
And you could see that they're numbered as well,
when you're dealing with 568 B as I mentioned,
it's white orange, orange, that's one and two,
then white green, blue,
white blue, green,
white brown and brown.
But really just, you wanna make sure you match the colors,
that's the most important thing,
and we test this with our continuity tester at the end
and it tests every pin.
Now with this cabling what you wanna do is,
as I mentioned, we wanna get rid of this excess,
if we're punching down here,
we're cut that out of there,
and you wanna try to get the wires as close in as possible,
and get that PVC jacket as close as you can,
and the reason for this is,
'cause you wanna keep the twists going as far as you can
along the length of the cable
before they get to the termination point,
and so we wanna try and make it as close as possible.
So we start fitting these in now,
and we'll actually place these guys directly into the slots,
like so,
and you could do it by hand,
I also have a couple tools for this,
and you wanna make sure
that you're doing it to the correct colors,
make sure that those colors match.
Once we have those wires in there,
placed in by hand or with a tool,
then you're gonna use your punch down tool,
and you can see it has a cut side
and it says cut on it,
that's gonna go to the outside
so that it cuts off the excess when we do the punch down,
so we place the tool in there,
and we punch down directly on that guy,
and we do that for each one,
and if you get a little extra
you could do a double punch or a triple punch,
and over time it should get rid of the excess for you,
and you wanna make sure they're fully down
into each of these slots.
So once again, you're punching down here,
and you wanna make sure it goes all the way in
and gets that individual wire all the way punched down,
so it meets the contact inside that slot,
you want copper on copper,
that's the goal here,
and always remember to have that cut side on the outside,
so it cuts off the excess.
Do a couple more punches,
remove the excess,
and then you wanna take a look at your work,
you wanna see here,
and make sure all these pins
are all the way down to the bottom,
you don't want them loose at the top here,
they have to be all the way down to make that connectivity,
very important,
and same thing on the other side,
they have to be all the way down.
So that's how you do punch downs on this,
you just got to make sure that it's meeting the requirement,
that the specification is met,
if you're using 568B on both ends,
make sure you're meeting those colors,
and make sure it's,
you know, exactly what it shows on there,
white orange, orange, white brown, brown
white blue, blue, white green, green,
that's what we have here,
and so that's the connection for this patch panel.
And on the other end, we'll connect to the jack,
and once again, we'll strip the PVC jacket off here,
and you don't wanna do too many cuts,
because you don't wanna cut into the wires themselves,
so you gotta be careful with that,
you might lose connectivity if you do so,
so pull that guy off,
and we'll do the same thing we did on the other end,
spreading out all the wires.
And now if we zoom in on the jack,
you'll see that we have these same types of slots,
and then once again, we have A and B,
we're gonna be using 568 B,
so we know exactly which colors go where,
we have orange, white orange,
green, and white green.
And if we turn it over,
you have the rest here,
it's gonna be white blue, blue, white brown, brown,
so you have to make sure that you're
setting up your wires in the correct order,
and we'll do that now,
and then we'll punch it down
in the same manner as the patch panel.
And we place the wires in one by one once again.
And as I mentioned, you can use a little tool,
something like this,
there's several out there,
sometimes cabling or jacks come with a little tool
to help kind of push them in temporarily,
until you're ready to do the full punch.
You gotta be careful with these,
you don't wanna damage the wires.
Okay, so all these wires are now placed in there
in the correct order,
let's actually check that,
and we got white orange, orange,
and white green, green,
and on this side, white blue, blue,
and white brown, brown,
and we're good, okay?
Sometimes the brown may look a little purple in video
and in dim lighting,
so you have to watch for that,
use a flashlight if necessary,
an LED flashlight really helps to show the colors
if you're in a dark area.
So now we're gonna punch these down the same way,
like I say, we wanna keep that cut side out,
so it cuts off the excess,
and we'll punch that straight down for each of the slots,
and we could place this guy right in here
and this little mounting tools,
the nice little feature,
and start punching.
Do as many punch downs as necessary to get the wire to cut,
but again, you wanna make sure
that those wires are all the way down in the slots.
And quite often, I'll try to make the PVC
get a little tighter here,
this isn't the greatest job,
but I usually try to get the PVC a little tighter,
sometimes even inside here,
the less space there is for open wires,
the less chance of a loss of data transfer,
you want the highest speed you can get with Cat6,
and so you wanna keep that PVC jacket as close as possible
to here, to the connection point,
so that the twists go all the way to that connection point
or as close as possible.
So again, I'll quite often make this a bit tighter,
I'm gonna do some more punches and get rid of the excess.
Now you always gotta check,
and make sure that the wires are all the way down,
you can see here,
couple are not quite down all the way,
like that solid brown,
so we'll punch that again,
and make sure they're all the way in there.
And that's that, so that guy is set up,
like I say, I usually will make this a little bit tighter,
this is for demonstration purposes,
it should work fine anyways,
but, a little tough to do this
while recording video as well,
but that's basically how you do it.
And then these usually come with some caps,
so you can cap those wires,
and we'll take this out of the mount,
and this whole jack would then go into a plate,
and some type of plate,
either, a flush mount plate or something like that,
I usually use blue for data,
and if I'm also setting up telco phone lines
I'll use white for those,
that's kind of an unwritten rule in the Northeast
in the United States,
but that's what I do,
and so that guy is finished.
And now we can move on to the testing stage,
so you need a tester and a terminator with it,
and a couple of patch cables,
and so we'll connect our jack
to one of the terminators,
and I'll use this guy here,
connect to port one on the patch panel,
and connect to the tester,
and it automatically tests when you turn it on,
and it says pass,
and you might be able to hear a beep
and it says pass here,
and it shows all eight pins,
one through eight are in order,
if any were punched down in the wrong order,
for example, quite often you'll see
white blue and blue are switched,
then the numbers on the bottom would be different,
and you might see four and five are switched,
that's common,
and it shows here ID number one,
that is our first terminator,
'cause I have eight terminators with this kit.
And so it test good,
it automatically tests for continuity for every pin.
Now actually, when I'm doing a lot of cable runs,
if I'm doing a bunch of drops for a company,
what I'll do is I'll connect all of these terminators
to the patch panel,
say I have eight terminators,
I'll connect to ports one through eight,
and I'll have one guy in the server room or the data center,
and we'll have walkie talkies
and communicate with each other,
and I would roam around with this tester around the office
going to each of the different workstations
that these are supposed to connect to
over long distance runs,
and then just plug in with the patch cable,
and if it sees the ID,
then I'd radio to the guy at the server room
or at wherever the wiring closet,
and say, hey, ID one just tested good,
let's move on to the next one, mark that down,
and we'd have a whole list and say,
you know, check, mark each port,
to let us know that each one was tested,
and you know, you need to do this
whenever you're doing cable runs.
Now, this tester can also send out a tone,
you might have heard of the tone and probe kit
or a fox and hound.
Well, this can generate tone if we change the mode,
there we go, to tone and select to execute,
that's now sending tone out on this wire,
and it's a good thing to have
if you don't know where cables go,
and in fact, quite often I'll use this at the jack side,
where the workstation is.
It's a good thing to have
because if you have a lot of cables and one has failed,
and it might be very hard to find them
if there's a big bundle of cables,
so you can plug this in to send tone across the cable,
and it just uses one pair, two wires,
generally white blue, blue,
that's four and five, if you're in 568 B,
and you can change the tones here that you wanna use
and the pairs that you send them,
but by default, it's usually white blue, blue.
And then we'd use our inductive amplifier known as,
this would be the hound
or this would be the probe of the kit,
and press the button to trace,
and you could probably hear that,
it's finding the wire,
place it somewhere else it doesn't see it,
so it's a good way of finding individual wires,
but it just sends tone,
it doesn't tell you that the cable works,
it only tells you that it's able to send tone
on one pair of wires,
you want to make sure that you set this guy
to your regular testing to test all the wires,
and make sure there is connectivity on each,
and it's all in order,
you gotta get that pass.
Testing is very important with cabling,
you wanna make sure that every port works properly,
and ours does on the first shot.
So, that's it for this sub lesson,
that's long distance cabling,
the physical plant,
connecting from the patch panel to the jack.
And again, we're just simulating this
with the six foot cable,
but this could be over as much as 100 meters maximum
when you're using unshielded twisted pair,
and so, you know, it could be a very long distance run,
could go through walls, over the ceilings,
could be whatever the customer needs.
And so, that's basically how you do it though,
either way, no matter how long the distance is
or how difficult it is to get the cable through,
that's basically what you do.
So that's it for this sub lesson.